A couple of days ago I visited the Zhichenkhar to drop a package for Dasho Karma Ura- 2 sets of books weighing over 12 kgs, all the way from Berlin, Germany. By the time I got there Dasho was already at work. He was on the steel scaffolding about three floors high, with the safety harness, giving some final touches to the debri painting. If not for his Bumthang mathra gho and the multi-colored socks he could have been easily mistaken for one of the painters who were all in pants. I waited patiently but he was engrossed in his work and didn’t look like he would come down for a while. I took his mobile number from one of his staff and dropped an SMS that I had come to drop the books, waited for over one and half hours hoping he would come down at least for a toilet break, and that I would love to meet him whenever he was free. Later in the day Dasho responded, “Drop by at 12:30 tomorrow and join us for lunch”.
So I showed up the next day. He was in the lobby, still in his Bumthang mathra gho and multi-colored socks, talking to two of his research trainees. A part of his gho had paint stains, probably from the other day. The noise in the lobby filled with over hundred trainees was quite deafening but he was still audible. I stood next to him waiting to be seen and as soon as he did, I bowed. “Oh Kuenga! Please come, we are waiting for lunch”. He gestured for me to sit next to him on the bench and then went back to talking to his trainees. They were discussing about a trip to the Gewogs. The 100 or so trainees will apparently travel to the 205 Gewogs soon. “Dasho, this is probably not the right time to travel”, said one trainee, respectfully. “Road on the lateral highway could get blocked due to the snow”. “So what?” He retorted. “People pay to go out on adventure trips! Today you have good shoes and if you wear a pair of Jai Bangla trousers, you will be warm enough”. The two trainees were convinced. He took out his phone and took a glance at the clock. Opened his WhatsApp and dropped a voice message, apparently to one of his staff, “You said lunch was at Changlimithang about ten minutes ago. Does it take this long to get here? You are wasting our time. Fail”. He hastily put his mobile phone back in his hemchu, looking visibly disappointed. “But you might miss Losar with your family”, he returned to the conversation with the trainees, his voice sounding concerned. And then one of the trainees reminded that those who go to the south will have to quarantine when they come back. “Oh that will cost money!” He said. And then lunch came and I got distracted and missed the conversation. I was hungry.
I went for the lunch with some expectations in my mind. It wasn’t close to what I expected. A professor from the UK was taking a class that day and lunch was ordered on that account for all the trainees. However, unlike at a usual government training, there was no luxurious spread. Lunch was packed in disposable boxes, each one got a box of rice and a box of curry. It was chicken curry and I am a vegetarian! “You don’t eat meat?” He asked. “Oh you will have to eat the rice then!” He sounded apologetic. “Oh fail again, I didn’t think about vegetarians and no water also”, he murmured to himself. I started munching on the rice. “How come you don’t have a delicious spread like in other government trainings la?” I asked, trying hard not to be cynical. “That costs a lot of money. This lunch is Nu. 220 per head. Tomorrow we will order Dosa from the Imtrat Canteen at Babesa. Do you like Dosa?” he asked one of the trainees, seated across the table, calling him by name. I don’t know if he knew every trainee by name but he interacted with a dozen or so trainees since my arrival and he called each one by their first names. He took out his mobile phone and ordered someone to get three cups of tea. I grinned with happiness. Then a lady trainee probably saw my plight and came to offer a mixed pickle. Dasho’s eyes widened with joy! “Oh you saved me”, he said, looking happy and pleased. I was happier. Then came tea. I was elated!
I don’t complain about food much. Especially free food! However if it’s paid and if there is no value for money, I complain. Otherwise I eat to live. But what I missed in food I made up in the conversation. We talked about topics ranging from Zhabdrung to Guru Rinpoche to Khandro Yeshey Tshogyel to ancient civilization and Kinship in Bhutan to Atsara Sale from Nepal who roamed Paro Taktshang and Kurtoe Singye Dzong, with Yeshey Tshogyel, in the 8th century, without a visa.
“This program to train researchers is critical and timely”, I shared. “Oh no, it’s 20 years late” he said. “For now, I am training them to get over the fear of writing. Each one of them has to write and submit a 5000 word paper every month, without fail”. “You have to give them a Masters Degree by Research at the end of the four years”, I tried to joke. “A lot more”, he was serious.
After the lunch we walked to the atrium where he proudly showed the debri he was working on. On the way he introduced me to Dechen. “She is a singer. I didn’t know till the other day. Now that I know I have to exploit her”, he grinned. “Come let me introduce you to Kuenga”, he told Dechen and her two friends. They joined us for the conversation in the atrium. I commented on a younger looking and well-built Zhabdrung on the debri as compared to the old white bearded Zhabdrung we are used to. “Oh this is probably what he looked like” he said. “I saw this image on a wall fresco at Tango Monastery. I also had the opportunity to see a rare sculpture image of Zhabdrung that is with His Majesty The King. Zhabdrung was a yogi and a vegetarian, people made him look like an old demented patient”, he equipped. “Yes I believe he used to do 6000 prostrations a day during his retreat”, I responded, trying to appear knowledgeable and contribute to the conversation. He didn’t hear that. “This image is probably a few years after his retreat at Chari”, he continued.
He then looked at his watch, stood up and started walking. We followed him. To a hall. It was time for the next lecture. “Come Dechen, you have to sing a song before we start the class”, he said and went on to grab the mike. “I will take leave la Dasho”, I whispered to him. “Thank you for the lunch”. “Oh ok” he said casually. I bowed and walked out of the Zhichenkhar, with a smile.